These climbing areas are featured in the movie Change. Listed in order of appearance in the movie. Needless to say that it is still a tip of iceberg of enormous climbing potential in Norway. Many potential world class climbing areas still remain hidden in the front of climber's eyes.
Granitgrottan (Bohuslan / Sweden) – a tough start of our Scandinavian trip. Tricky climbing on pinches, slopers and occasional crimp. In the cave itself, you need to climb at least 7c to climb the best routes , but in the surrounding there are many possibilties for very good moderate climbing as well.
Kvam – nice crag with different sectors scattered along the shore of Songdal fjord. Offers multiple classic routes in all grades on solid dark granite. Fantastic crack climbing.
Matre – supposedly one of the best bouldering areas in Norway. Many blocs scattered along the low-trafic road in a valley resembling the famous Val di Mello.
Loven – a beautiful-looking slightly overhanging wall of prefect granite. Higly demanding climbing on various types of holds. The best routes from 7a to 8a+, but alot space to bolt some ultra hard classics, the question of the day whether it is not too blank.
Hell – north-facing area of conglomerate offering varitety of routes of all grades on a couple of hundred meters. The routes are not higher than 20 meters, but continuous from the very start. Get ready for some pockets, especially in the easier routes. A popular area for climbers of Tronheim, don't expect to be alone here.
Ekne – technical climbing with a splendid view of the Trondheimsfjord, especially for moderate cimbing. A paradise for those searching pleasant climbing in the solitude. Supposedly the only sandstone climbing area in Norway, but still climb pretty much like granite.
Flatanger / Strøm
Region that is becoming increasingly famous thanks to Hanshelleren cave in Strøm, where possibly the world's hardest route is to be found. The size of the cave, steepness and excellent quality of granitic gneiss will definitely tempt hardcore climbers in the future. The cave is still full of potential for another hardcore lines to be opened. Nevertheless, the cave itself is not a playground for few strongest, the wall to the left offers some absolute classics in all grades. Besides the cave, there are four existing sectors and brand new sectors will definitely follow in the next years.
Where - about 2,5 hour drive north from Trondheim in mid-Norway. There are flights operating from a few European cities, but usually you need to transfer in Oslo. Possibility of getting there by public transport from Trondheim airport.
Climbing guide - possible to buy on the farm/camp site in Strøm. Also new detailed mobile application will be available in 2013, more info here SOON.
When - May to October. It can be fairly cold in the beginning or the end of the season, but if you are lucky, you can get the stickiest conditions. However, it is summer destination for everyone who wants to escape the heat. The teperature in summer can be anywhere in between 10 and 25 degrees.
Where to stay - most of the rocks are around the farm of "Strøm", thus are on the private land. Very friendly owners of the farm offer accomodation of various kinds from pitching up the tent, renting small bungalows or stazying in the rooms in the house. New web-page about this fantastic camp site in under construction right now.
What to do around - when it comes to fishing, it is as terrific as climbing. Numerous possibilities of hiking in wonderful nordic nature.
"Wilderness" - bouldering deep in absolutely deserted area somewhere at the border of Norway and Sweden. Anybody can find his own dream area in fantastic Scandinavia, so this one reamins "secret", just for us... :-)
Gjerndalen (Magic Valley) – bouldering area in the wild mountains of Sapmi (Lappland), cca 200km behind the polar circle. Blocs are scatterde everywhere in the valley, but only a few places can offer more problems close to each other. Very aesthetic place with a couple of classic problems worth a trip.
Lofoten - famous group of islands has been the famous objective for many climbers, hikers and tourists recently. It offers all type of climbing from bouldering, sport climbing and trad multipitch climbing. However, the multipitch climbing is the definitely the most attractive.
CRAG LOCATION 1 (Rough Gem boulder)
CRAG LOCATION 2 (Springflo boulder)
Sleppen - perfectly bolted crag for begginers and moderate climbers perfectly accessible from the parking. Fantastic Nature around, situated near Skutvik in Hamarøy kommune.
Halmoya - so far almost virgin area in Hamarøy kommune with absolutely splendid view on silhouete of Lofoten. An area offers a couple of trad routes in cracks, but the bolting sport climbing routes should get started in 2013.
Text: Adam Ondra and Petr Pavlíček
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Change 9b+ / Flatanger
Thor´s hammer 9a+ / Flatanger
Odin´s eye 8c+ OS / Flatanger
Mui verdes 8c+ OS / Flatanger
Nordic flower 8c+ OS / Flatanger
Leo line 8c+ / Kvam
Be my guest 8c+ / Granitgrottan
Fraulein 8c / Kvam
Southpay 8c / Granitgrottan
Veien ut av gufsedalen" 8b+ OS / Ekne
And many more, mainly On-Sights...
Hand-jive 8B+ FA / Gjerndalen
Blood redemption 8B+ (C) / Matre
Rough Gem 8B / Heilt Rå-steinen, Lofoten
Springflo 8B / Stem Bastensen, Lofoten
Into the Wild 8a+ FA / Wilderness
Vingsand Pirates 8a / Vingsand
Plus a few easier, but very impressive lines...
Biographie 9a+ FLASH / Ceuse
9a+ project / Hell
9a+ project / Loven
Training on Adam´s bouldering wall
Bouldering competition in Voss